Sit with your board underneath your bottom in the middle of the board. When you see a nice wave coming, turn the nose of the board towards the direction of the beach. Lay on your board and paddle towards the beach. The wave will now start to lift you, shift your weight in the direction of the nose of the board so that it goes under water, cup your hands and paddle with as much resistance as you can. You're going to raise your chest now above the board. If done successfully, you will easily glide into the wave's trough.
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